Torrisi- best sandwich on earth.

My review of Torrisi didn't get finished. I've been too busy wiping the drool from my face.

It is known by some as "THE Sandwich".  IT does define the genre.  And the sides of vege are even better!  How do they make turkey taste that good?  How do they make pork so good you can't get it without determination?  How is it that I only ate there twice?

This piece in the Times is good background to what makes this place so special. And yes, if you are in the east, you should go to NYC. And have a meal there.

Cooking Up a Big Idea in Little Italy - NYTimes.com
Read it online: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/01/magazine/mag-01Torrisi-t.html?_r=1
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Blue Hill at Stone Barns

Referred to as one of the most important restaurants in America, the name is worth mastering. Blue Hill at Stone Barns.



We had been saving for this event meal for weeks, planning it to be the kickoff event of our partnership's Anniversary Month. How appropriate to begin the celebration here in the the Hudson Valley. We intend to conclude the celebration in the Napa Valley.

Located on one of the estates of David Rockefeller, the restaurant is one feature of the farm. The purpose of the entity is to develop and educate the public and restaurant industry about sustainable agriculture. The farm is a showcase for the kind of forward thinking farming that takes agrarian heritage and adds science. A walk around the various pastures and barns is sure to make you think about where you meal comes from. This subject is very dear to us, as we harvest a large portion of our vittles from our land, the forests and waters of the northwest.

This is about the restaurant. We had our reservations, and dressed as requested, as most did. The main business comes from the city, just 28 miles south. Our trip took us into Stone Barns from the north, the fabled Hudson Valley. That beautiful drive really set a farm tone for the evening. We were early, and took a walk around the farm, entertaining ourselves and the cows. The sheep had just been sheered, and were not amused. The setting is magnificent.

We finally went inside, to the cozy bar. Here we sat by the fire, anticipating and talking. The cocktail menu caught my eye, and gave us a preview of the fare. The staff was occupied, and when they got to us, we ordered a drink. No hurry. I ordered a Beet It. Cava, beet infused vodka, house made bitters with a hint of marjoram. It was delicious. The wine list is brilliantly organized by primary characteristics, and is a bit pricey. One minor disagreement here- since the focus of Blue Hill is local sourcing and micro agriculture, wines should be featured that reflect the terroir. Nothing in food and wine pairing is more important in my opinion. This knowledge alone is what keeps France from slipping into barbarism.

After a pleasant wait, we were shown kindly to a table early. How nice. We had our minds made up, and ordered the 5 course Easter tasting. The policy at Blue Hill is to not spend a lot of time describing the food, in writing or before ordering. Very different, and effective to make one focus and trust. I liked it.

We were treated to an extensive amuse buche, with dried vegetable chips and an herb spritzer that was very fun and clever. This mini-course finished with a tiny beet burger- scrumptious!

Then we got into the menu. An Easter egg in a bed of micro-greens. The egg was of course fresh off the farm, and that matters, as we all know. It was perfectly cooked, the yolk soft and unctuous, creamy and not too runny. When it was mixed in the greens, with the basil and herb paste on the plate, it was fun. The greens were eye opening- each variety's flavor was distinct and balanced. It was served on a slate slab, which we thought too clever by half. We are certain we picked up a metallic flavor from the slate.

The fish course was flawed, in our personal view. It was a delicious piece of trout filet, grilled on the skin, then the meat separated and served. The flavor of the cooking was delicate and complimented the the trout, but it was very little more cooked than raw. Not a pleasing texture, and one that in my view detracts from the enjoyment. It is too soft and mushy to be pleasing. What saved the dish was the Mayer Lemon sauce, which, if you must use lemon on fish, and this one needed it, was an inventive and appropriate way. The shittake mushrooms and ramps (of course at this time of year), were very complimentary. Another new idea- fish and mushrooms, which is perfect for our home range.

Next came a parsnip steak. Yes. A nice size, well cooked parsnip root. With a sweet maple-bacon sauce that was yet another revelation. We are planting the damn things as a result of this dish. I hope we can cook it as well!

The course we faced with trepidation came next, lamb! Mrs. Exechobo has been traumatized by lamb, and avoids it stringently. She knew this was her moment to face fear, the time she could count on having the best lamb possible to see if she could overcome lambaphobia. The lamb was served two ways, a piece of belly and a loin. The loin was perfectly cooked, and seasoned with salt and pepper to perfection as well. The sauce was rich, deep and balanced. The belly? A bit tough and fatty, alit seemed to yearn for more time on the fire. The carrots were impossibly sweet. And the Cardinal Spinach was what we had mistaken for chard in the greenhouse on the farm. It was tasty.

Desert was a bit odd. On top a foam of Blue Hill milk, from the farm. It was grassy and good, as real milk is. It topped what I can only recall as a mini mess of things chocolate and coffee. Icy and liquidy and mousy. Filling, abundant and not all that great. We were surprised to learn the cookie bit was gingerbread, as it had no characteristics of gingerbread.

Overall, one of the minor things that impressed us was the perfect cooking of the vege. Not too done, not too undone. More important though was the way the meal came together as an event centered on the farm, with simply conceived cooked to modern culinary perfection, and a twist of imagination to make them more interesting. This is great American cuisine.

I recently wrote about my rationale for eating out. Dining at Blue Hill is worth it:

- Worth the money? YES

- Worth the time, travel? YES

- Sates my hunger? Well, yes

- Makes me think? YES

- Inspires my culinary interest? YES

- Inspires my professional business interest? Not so much

- Creates a center for a good time with others? oh YES

The list for a reservation is quite full, so plan ahead, but by all means, do as we did and plan a trip around this gem. Try to get there in the day and bring some gumboots to tour the barns and pastures. There is a cafe to refresh you. Make it a day celebrating the gifts of agriculture.


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David Burke's Townhouse Eatin' Fine in Manhattan

In the East 50's there are some nice townhouses.  And a few nice places to eat.  David Burke has one, his Townhouse.  It is in a townhouse, so that makes sense for the neighborhood.  The reputation is powerful.  It is cuisine art.  Not so wild and scientific as Wily Dufresne.  But more recognizable and mainstream.

The bar is narrow and and cool.  We walked right past to the dining room, we meant business.  Ordering was not easy.  The menu is delightful everywhere you look.  Service is good, informal, friendly and helpful.  This is a place you feel comfortable, but be prepared to drop a bundle.  And they can mix a drink too.  I had a Manhattan, naturally.

The best part of the night was the rabbit.  We love the bunny, and at David Burke's Townhouse they know how to prepare it.  This well conceived trio had three tastes, each better than the other, culminating in a great rabbit confit.

When in Manhattan, and looking for a place to have a special meal, I would advise you to consider this place.  

Morimoto- Ronin of Excellence

The samurai chef stands above the culinary world like a giant.  No one messes with the man who takes culinary excellence personally, and has unmatched knife skills.

We finally ate at Morimoto in Chelsea. One problem. We waited too long.

Service- efficient and professional. Dishes whisked away when empty and replaced within seconds. Informal, informed, incomparable.

Have you had a California roll? We thought we had too. Now we know. So sorry we will never enjoy one again till we return. Sake? I thought it harsh. Morimoto' favorite food sake is amazingly smooth, clean and refreshing. Pricey, and worth it.

We had fish, his strong suit, though most people opt for waigu beef. The fish was prepared beautifully and with a lot of thought about subtlety. One issue, we found the halibut slightly over cooked. We are very particular about this, as Mrs Exechobo is one of the finest fish cooks in the Northwest.

The decor is perfect- sound antenuation is built into the look of being inside a giant clam shell. Clever and functional. All is cream, concrete and glass, and modern. A gigantic 24"X24" hewn timber is incorporated, as is appropriate in a Japanese temple. The restrooms incorporate the famous super-toilets the Japanese favor.

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Patsy's- Old School Uptown Dining

Back in the day, Sinatra owned Manhattan.  Some think this was the best of times, when celebrities were rare, and no one messed with 'em.  I don't know about that, but I do know they have been serving celebrities at Patsy's since 1944.  They make a brand out of it.  Located near the Lincoln Center, it is a great location for eating before the theater.  Sinatra, son of Hoboken, pronounced it his favorite place in Manhattan.  

I was familiar with the legend of Patsy's, having cited it to my team when developing concepts.  I hoped we would build something lasting, with hands-on involvement.  I should have visited first.  

The store front and decor are spot on- every touch-point is in alignment with what you want it to be, a 50s-60s kinda joint The Chairman would like.  We were looking forward to a decent old-school Italian res sauce meal.

So the web site is a good one, lotsa content, and well constructed.  Nice work being current.  No reservations though, so a phone call is called for, and when well.  When we arrived, and the hostess was revealed to be the old Nana, we understood.  She was pleasant and welcoming.  I thought: "Hmmm, the reviewers who said it was like a family establishment were right, and this will be fun!"  Then we met the Maitre d'.  We were then disabused of our erroneous thinking.  

We were told that our coats would now be surrendered.  NO COATS IN THE DINING ROOM!  I reluctantly did.  For the only time in Manhattan.  Nervously, I fingered my sweater, would I have to strip it off too?  Was the Maitre d' angling for a job with TSA?  My wife had on a light suit coat that they wanted to take too.  She clutched it, and before she could scream, I spoke up; "She is naked underneath! Do you want her naked in the dining room?!"   On the way to our table upstairs, I couldn't help but notice that many chairs had coats over the back of them.  Hmmmm.

When we sat, we were agitated and uncomfortable.  Maybe it is like going to a family member's home.  Like a crazy old aunt's.  We considered leaving, but the menu does look good.  We ordered some basic red sauce stuff.  The pasta was perfect.  Really good.  The sauce was exactly as it should be, delicious and unctuous.  

The price, by the way, is honestly advertised as being high.  Yes, high indeed, but if the service were not condescending, haughty, belittling, and aggravating, it would be OK.

So the upshot?  Find another place to eat Italian.  And if you want to look at celebrity photos as you eat, go to Katz' Deli.  The abusive service is expected and welcome there.  

Fornino- Lunching in Brooklyn is for the Strong

When in hip Brooklyn, pack a lunch.  Cause most places are closed in the daytime.  Brooklyn people are too hip for midday eating.  After three tries we found a place that was open, Fornino, proving that Brooklyn is magic.

The window says it is a good place for pizza.  I know pizza, making and selling it off and on for 40 years now.  I decide what is good.

When we went in, the place is like stepping into a storybook.  A book that contains all the details of a concept I worked on back in the day.  Oven featured as the center of the show.  Plain, cool, simple.

The menu is constructed in a really smart way- tracing pizza through three generations, from the early traditions, through the explosion of popularity in the US, to the art that Fornino considers theirs.  The Art and Science of Pizza.  I like that.

Great crust, and gorgeous toppings, cooked perfectly in their wood oven, in a cool place.  This is the deal in Brooklyn.  It is close to Serious Pie in Seattle, but this is the east coast.  If you are east of the Mississippi, this is worth a stop.

SweetLeaf coffee joint

 At the foot of the Pulaski Bridge in Brooklyn is a cool place that takes coffee serious.  Of the third wave places, this one is one of the more weird, less serious, and better quality.  These guys are serious about one thing, the bean.

 Oh, and next door is a tiny, improbable bakery that turns out some really good, basic baked goods, all day, almost to order.  Bring your taste buds and brain to Brooklyn and give em a some exercise at Sweetleaf.

Whatever you do, get your coffee to stay, in a ceramic cup so you can taste it.  And if you must, take it in the back room, the laptop room, and spin some of the vinyl they have.  Rich, one of the owners is a great, devoted guy, and this combines two of his passions.

Black Shack- Burgers

Burgers are a thing in NYC.  Black Shack is a one location competitor for Shake Shack, BRGR, Five Guys, Burger Heaven, and the rest.

But I like Black Shack best.  The burgers are good, and cooked right on a flat-top.  The fries are good too, and the price is nice.  Worth a stop if you are in Midtown.

Brooklyn Beer

In honor of a missing comrade, we hoisted a glass of Munchen bier on a rooftop in Brooklyn, overlooking Manhattan.  What a glorious afternoon to sample the high life in America's soul, NYC.

Taim Falafel

In the SOHO this tiny falafel stand puts most of the rest to shame.  We first learned of Taim watching Bobby Flay compete to make falafel as good.  As I recall, he failed, and no wonder.  Here falafel are small, tender nuggets, bursting with moist flavor.  In a sandwich they are loaded in with tasty humus, sauce, and slaw into the best pita I have had.

There are about 5 seats, so get yours to go.  It holds up well.  I had the spicy one, that has Harissa in the mix.  Perfect amount of heat.  

Artisanal, Manhattan

Broke down banquettes. Pungent sweat sock smell of fondue.

We arrived to the minute for our reservation and and on the way to out table my head was on a swivel, looking at Manhattan's most beautiful people.

The service was professional, but unremarkable.  We were not pressed to order wine, but the winelist is very intriguing.  And expensive.  We had Skate wing, Branzini, Bean soup, Chocolate Marquise.  The branzini was cooked perfectly.  Moist inside and perfectly crispy outside.  The skate wing was even better.  Again, perfectly cooked, on a bed of delicious vegetables, with a puree of cauliflower. The bean soup was pureed to a creamy texture, as many French soups are, and had some nice pieces of hard sausage in it, that they called chorizo.  It was not quite as good as most bean soups. And the Marquise was the thinnest slice of a layered mouse cake.  The layers in between were meant to be pastry, but had soaked to the point of mush.  Nice, but not really great.

As we sat there I marveled at the giant cowboy rib-eyes going by, and wondered if this is a French fish restaurant, a chop house, or a fromagerie?  The cheese third of the concept was most to the forefront, its aroma always present.  Not a good thing when eating fish, which was about a third of the menu.  We also questioned the third of the menu that was chop house- so many plates of meat were being sent back.  Too bad for those who came together, and ate separately as one plate went back to the kitchen to be corrected while the other person ate theirs alone.

Artisanal is another schizophrenic restaurant, perhaps with three investors who wanted to open different places, but though "Hey! Lets put all three restaurants in one place!  Wouldn't that be cool?"  I would avoid this high dollar place on Park Ave.

L' Express

Our simple request, often insurmountable, was met with insouciance.  Water, no ice, served in copious amounts, room temperature.  Thus, we started the meal on a happy note.

L' Express decor is refreshingly French, not canned, hyper-French theme park decor.  It is well worn, simple, and tight.  The decor fairly represents the service.  This is a place to go for some decent food served with a simple, direct and fast style.  To me, it is a Bistro.  I will repeat the ancient urban legend, that when the Russians occupied Paris after Napoleon's defeat, Cossaks would storm into private cellars turned restaurants, shouting "Bystro! Bystro!", demanding food.  Of course, this is likely a myth.  But the cellar kitchens were specialists in simple food, usually braised, cheap cuts, served with no flourishes, at workingman's prices to supplement the rents paid by occupants.

At L' Express we had chicken sausage, onion tart, trout almondine.  Nothing was stunningly good, but everything was good.  And the value was exceptional. This is a place to return to, which in Manhattan, is high praise indeed.  We have a short list of places to go when our sense of adventure is dulled by work, places we count on for good food fairly priced when too tired to explore.  L' Express is on the list.

Veselka- Ukrainian Diner

In the East Village, Veselka is a Ukranian diner, serving the neighborhood 24/7 since 1954.   We put it on the short list for our next NYC trip. Reviews praise the place, but damn the food. New Yorkers are such a whiney bunch of bitches. Fast to the point of brusque is how we like it.

So we walked in, and were shown to a table.  No snide, condescending "Reservations?", no show about finding one of the empty tables as if they were somehow invisible to all but the trained hostess eye.  Menus plopped on the table.  We studied it, taking a self taught lesson on Ukranian comfort food mixed with American diner fare.

Pierogies, latkes, matzo soup, blintz, beet/horseradish salad, and kasha.  Starting with the least, avoid kasha at all cost.  It is actually worse than you think it will be.  No seasoning.  The people who make this at home make it better.  Now that that is over with, the rest of was great.  The beet and horseradish salad was surprising, and deliciously balanced.  Four different pierogies were fried, and tasty.  We liked the sweet potato one best.  The latke tasted like those I make, that is to say, delicious, but was thick and fluffy.  Very good!  The matzo soup was rich, tasty and had chicken and vegetables, along with a big fluffy matzo ball.  But the blintz! How wonderful it was- perfect light crepe filled with a light cheese that was just the right texture.  This desert doubled the price of the meal, which was a total of $32.  Good value.

We passed on hamburgers, which are reputed to be fantastic, and look forward to coming back for them. We can count on Veselka being there, as it has, since the year I was born.  Veselka is Love!

UPDATE...........UPDATE.............UPDATE

We returned to Veselka.  The hamburger is well reviewed by many fans, so made a trip to be sure to sample it. What we found was a level of inconsistency in the food that was a bit off-putting.  The mazoh soup was different this time, much more fat on top, less vegetables, and a matzoh ball less light.  The blintz was not as good.  The beet/horseradish salad was bland.  The latke, thankfully was as good, though arrived cold.  The kielbasa burger was cooked as ordered, and was worth the trip- the addition of kielbasa to ground beef is genius!  Where I wish they put more effort was in the condiments- mustard and ketchup, and a leaf of lettuce are not worthy of this creation.  The pickled onions are a little start.  

Boqueria Restaurant

Catalan is a region of it's own quirky and assertive culture. Aggressive in espousing their difference and therefore superiority, Catalonians work hard to be worthy of their bragging. Sometimes as much as 35 hours a week! But they make up for that by telling everyone how little sleep they get. Parties, un-muffeled motor scooters and long lunches may actually account for that.  But I digress.

In Barcelona, design is present everywhere, like the legendary Gaudi's Sagrada Familia, the Village Olympic.  This little place in SOHO carries on the design ethic.  It is chic and sleek, refining modern well past the Italians, as only the Catalonians can.  But I digress.

We stopped for a quick bite before work at Boqueria, looking for the tiny, tasty bocadillas I remember from my time in Barcelona.  But on Sunday, the menu features a brunch, so the bocas are off the menu.  We opted for tapas instead, three small plates.

Good choice!  Delicious croquettes of salt cod and potatoes, pan roasted Brussels sprouts with chorizo, and  the famous tortilla, an omelet of potatoes.  All were tasty and fun, came to the table fast, and made a perfect light lunch for us.

Copper Chimney

Murray Hill in Manhattan is an area with Indian restaurant on every corner. In some areas this is a literal statement. Competition is fierce.

I love this cuisine. It is as if the cradle of the spice trade took thousands of years to evolve flavor and cooking styles. Oh wait. They did! But for some reason they didn't work on service in that time.

We always take a walk to Lexington Ave to find an Indian restaurant, and make it our way to try new ones each time.  As we neared Lex, we went by Copper Chimney.  On the door it says "Tasty Indian Cuisine".  And it looked more like a restaurant that a curry shop, so in we went.

We are glad we did, for it was delicious!  In fact, so good was it, we have been back again.  Although the lemon pickles were about inedible, everything else made up for that.  Very subtle, clever use of spices.

Copper Chimney is worth a return trip- we will have to force ourselves to walk past it to continue exploration.

Sweet Water's Steakhouse

It was sleeting and snowing in Westfield, but inside Sweet Water we were warm and cozy. On Elm St, this small, old school kinda place enjoys warm wood floor and trim, but is not designed to look like a steakhouse, it IS one.

The bacon appetizer is indulgent, smoky and unguent. Full of flavor, a pair of big hunks of pork belly pan seared to perfection. We also had a crab cake app as an entree, which was the right portion. The crabcake was the best one this crabber has had here on the east coast. My filet was a beautiful piece of dry aged perfection, cooked properly. And the sides we delicious.

Service was just right for an unpretentious, straightforward local steakhouse.

If you want a decent meal of beef, drive out of your way to Sweet Water.

The Greek Corner Coffee Shop Diner

At 6th Ave and 28th St, this diner drew us in, possibly due to its tattered blue awning and all inclusive name. We weren't expecting much, maybe a decent, quick meal, maybe a pleasant surprise. The place was packed, a good sign. In we went, got the normal NYC diner greeting- "Here or to go?", and contorted our way into our seats around a tiny table, inches from the one next to it.

The menu, as you would expect, includes everything, but the gyros and falafel. While we waited, place settings were plunked down. We don't normally inspect cutlery, but the smears of mayo or something less savory could not help but be noticed. For a minute I thought they were an amuse bouche. But they decorated all four pieces. I made a commitment to eat with my hands. The ketchup bottle too wore a gloppy coat of oozing red goo. It snagged our clothes before we wrangled it aside.

Thoughtfully, the food came, wrapped as you would expect it to be if to go. Good! Our hands were freshly washed, and served to stuff our pie holes. The gyro was tasty- full, well made and with a particularly good tzatziki.

Here we are, 10 hours later, no problems, but on balance, this is a place to avoid unless you have a strong stomach. But if you are here, and hungry, order something to eat with your hands.

Mizu Sushi in Cranford

Sushi restaurants are our choice for a light break from normal travel fare.








I cut my sushi teeth in Japan traveling amongst the blue suit brigade, enjoying saki drenched evenings in Rapongi.

Mizu Sushi in Cranford, NJ is a worthy little place. It is warm and informal. One caution, if you need an Asahi ultra dry or Kirin, be sure to bring it with you. Liquor licensing in NJ is out of reach for little places like this.

The rolls are delicious and the tempura is as good as it gets outside of Kyoto.







Stop in when you are looking for a light meal.

Emma's Brick Oven Pizza

Some restaurants are emotionally evocative. A type that evokes emotion on the broadest possible scale is the pizzeria. I have seen people cry in focus groups when describing what a pizzeria meant to them. With so much potential at stake, getting it right yields big rewards. Like satisfaction for owners who see happy faces in the dining room.




Emma's in downtown Cranford, NJ is an up to date pizzeria. It makes no effort to replicate the old days, or the old country. It is not a carrying place with tables. And if they deliver, they have the courtesy to keep it quiet. The decor is simple and communal, like any pizzeria. Like any up to dat one, they use a wood burning hearth oven, and have to good taste to design it well and feature it as the focus of the whole restaurant.




But how about the food? My perusal of the menu could not get past the first item, a Margherita. Emma's is made with fresh buffalo mozzarella, crushed San Marzano tomatoes, ( the world's best due to the soils fertilized by volcanic ash), and a thin crust. Thin between New York and Napoli.  We ordered a "personal" size- good choice for two.

The pie was so good, I burned my mouth on it! Part of the joy of great pizza right from the oven- something no delivery can replicate. Nor can delivery replicate the delicate crisp of a thin crust.

We also had a bowl of white bean and escarole soup, one of the best soups I have had in a restaurant. Real care and love.we left happily stuffed. All this for a sawbuck, including tip.

Emma's dining room is always full of families enjoying each other over a pie. That is what a pizzeria is.

Local pizzerias make me happy. Searching for one makes me frustrated. Discovering one makes me triumphant.

Xocolatz Restaurant Review

Quaint, toney Westfield NJ has several interesting places to eat. Xocolatz is certainly the most interestingly named. On Elmer St just off North Ave, it is easy to get to, and inviting as you go by. We decided to go in based on curb appeal.





The decor is a bit odd. Sections are devoted to different design ethics. One wall is Cracker Barrel, one is Mayan, one is abstract, parts are Japanese modern. But the layout, tables & chairs, flatware & napkins say it is a place that place has been a cafe at one time.





With an open kitchen, knowledgeable servers and eclectic menu, it is a bit Napa Valley too.





Our food was impressive when it arrived at table. Even a bit frenetic. One less plating flourish would have been fine. The server recommended skirt steak and it was subtly and effectively marinated, and cooked perfectly. The house made and featured gnocchi was a disappointment. A bit heavy and dense. Vege cooked properly though. The Salmon also perfectly cooked, and the sweet potato cake was delicious. Saucing, like presentation would benefit from more restraint. And the skirt steak and everything on the plate would have benefitted from more seasoning.





Overall, Xocolatz was a pleasant surprise, and we would go back. The owners suffer from a lack of self editing, on the lengthy menu, the decor and the plating. But they have value, service, execution and flavor under control.

One thing though, what's with the name? Nothing on the menu seemed to contain xocolate. Nor were any Mayan flavors described. More evidence of mild schizophrenia.